Investment Questions for Beginners
Straightforward answers to common investment questions for New Zealanders starting their wealth-building journey.
11 questions answered
There's no single "best" way — the right starting point depends on your situation. However, a common progression for New Zealand beginners: **Step 1 — Build a safety net:** Have 3-6 months of living expenses in a savings account before investing. **Step 2 — Optimise KiwiSaver:** Make sure you're contributing enough to get the full government contribution ($521.43/year) and that you're in an appropriate fund type for your age. **Step 3 — Start small with managed funds:** Platforms like InvestNow, Sharesies, Hatch, or Kernel allow you to invest with small amounts. Managed funds provide instant diversification. **Step 4 — Learn and grow:** As your knowledge and capital grow, you might explore direct shares, ETFs, bonds, or property. **Key principles for beginners:** - Start early — time in the market matters more than timing the market - Diversify — don't put everything in one investment - Keep fees low — they compound over decades - Invest regularly — dollar-cost averaging reduces timing risk If you're unsure where to start, an investment adviser can help you build a plan tailored to your goals and risk tolerance.
These are the three main investment types you'll encounter: **Shares (equities):** You buy ownership stakes in companies. If the company does well, the share price rises and you may receive dividends. Higher potential returns but also higher risk — individual shares can lose significant value. **Bonds (fixed income):** You lend money to a government or company in return for regular interest payments and your money back at a set date. Lower returns than shares but more predictable and less volatile. **Managed funds:** A pool of money from many investors, managed by professionals who invest in a mix of shares, bonds, property, and other assets. You get diversification without needing to pick individual investments. Fees vary. **Exchange-Traded Funds (ETFs):** Similar to managed funds but traded on the share market like individual shares. Often have lower fees than actively managed funds. **For beginners:** Managed funds or ETFs are often a sensible starting point because they provide diversification and professional management without requiring you to research individual companies.
You can start investing in New Zealand with very small amounts thanks to modern investment platforms: **Minimum amounts:** - **Sharesies:** From $1 (fractional shares available) - **InvestNow:** From $50 for most funds, some from $250 - **Kernel:** From $1 for managed funds - **Hatch:** From the price of one share (for US shares) - **Direct NZX shares:** Typically $500-$1,000 minimum to make brokerage fees worthwhile **What matters more than the amount:** - Starting early, even with small amounts - Contributing regularly (even $50/month adds up) - Keeping fees proportional to your investment size - Not investing money you'll need in the short term **Before investing, ensure you have:** - An emergency fund (3-6 months of expenses) - No high-interest debt (credit cards, personal loans) - A clear goal and timeframe for the investment An investment adviser can help you determine how much to invest and where, based on your income, goals, and existing financial commitments.
New Zealand has several tax rules that affect investors: **Portfolio Investment Entities (PIEs):** KiwiSaver and many managed funds are taxed as PIEs. Your tax rate depends on your Prescribed Investor Rate (PIR): 10.5%, 17.5%, or 28%. For high earners, PIE tax at 28% is lower than the top personal rate of 39%. **Direct NZ shares:** Dividends are taxable income. New Zealand doesn't have a capital gains tax on shares (with some exceptions for traders or people who bought shares with the intention of selling for profit). **Foreign shares and funds:** The Foreign Investment Fund (FIF) rules apply to overseas investments over $50,000 (cost basis). You may be taxed on deemed income even if you haven't sold. Below $50,000, only dividends are taxed. **Cryptocurrency:** The IRD treats crypto as property. Profits may be taxable if you acquired crypto with the purpose of disposal. **Property:** The bright-line test means residential property sold within a set period (currently 2 years for new builds, 10 years for existing homes with exemptions) may be subject to tax on gains. Tax on investments can be complex. A financial adviser or tax specialist can help you structure your investments tax-efficiently.
Diversification means spreading your investments across different types of assets, industries, and regions so that poor performance in one area doesn't devastate your entire portfolio. **Example of poor diversification:** All your money in one company's shares. If that company fails, you lose everything. **Example of good diversification:** Your investments spread across NZ shares, international shares, bonds, property, and cash — across different industries and countries. **Why it works:** Different asset types perform differently at different times. When shares are falling, bonds might be stable. When the NZ market is flat, international markets might be growing. Diversification smooths out the ride. **How to diversify in NZ:** - KiwiSaver in a diversified fund (already has mix of assets) - Add international exposure through global ETFs or managed funds - Consider bonds or fixed income for stability - Property (through REITs or direct ownership) adds another asset class **The simplest approach:** A single diversified managed fund or a target-date fund provides instant diversification. As your portfolio grows, you can add more specific investments. An investment adviser can help construct a portfolio with the right diversification for your goals and risk tolerance.
Dollar-cost averaging (DCA) means investing a fixed amount of money at regular intervals (e.g., $200 every month) regardless of what the market is doing. **How it works:** - When prices are high, your fixed amount buys fewer units - When prices are low, your fixed amount buys more units - Over time, this averages out your purchase price **Example:** Investing $200/month into a fund: - Month 1: Unit price $10 → buy 20 units - Month 2: Unit price $8 → buy 25 units - Month 3: Unit price $12 → buy 16.7 units - Average cost: $9.84 per unit (not $10) **Benefits:** - Removes the stress of trying to "time the market" - Enforces disciplined, regular investing - Reduces the risk of investing a large sum at the worst possible time **When it's particularly useful:** If you have a regular income and want to build wealth gradually. Most KiwiSaver contributions work on this principle automatically through payroll deductions. **When lump sum might be better:** Statistically, if you have a large sum available, investing it all at once produces higher returns about two-thirds of the time — because markets tend to rise over time. But DCA provides emotional comfort and is a sound strategy for regular savings.
All investments carry some level of risk. Understanding these risks helps you make informed decisions: **Market risk:** The value of shares and funds can fall due to economic conditions, geopolitical events, or market sentiment. This is the most visible risk. **Inflation risk:** If your investment returns don't exceed inflation, your purchasing power decreases. Cash savings are particularly vulnerable to this. **Liquidity risk:** Some investments (like property or certain bonds) can't be easily sold quickly without accepting a lower price. **Concentration risk:** Having too much invested in one company, sector, or country. Diversification reduces this. **Currency risk:** International investments are affected by exchange rate movements between NZD and foreign currencies. **Interest rate risk:** Bond prices fall when interest rates rise. This also affects property valuations. **Company-specific risk:** Individual companies can underperform or fail, regardless of broader market conditions. **Key principle:** Higher potential returns generally come with higher risk. The goal isn't to eliminate risk but to take the right level of risk for your goals and timeline. An investment adviser can help you understand and manage these risks appropriately.
Most investment professionals suggest a mix of both, and here's why: **New Zealand market:** - You understand the companies and economy - No currency risk on NZ investments - Favourable dividend imputation credits - But: NZ is a tiny market (less than 0.1% of global market capitalisation) - Heavy concentration in a few sectors (utilities, property, agriculture) **International markets:** - Access to thousands of companies across all sectors - Technology, healthcare, consumer goods — sectors underrepresented in NZ - Greater diversification across economies and currencies - But: Currency risk, FIF tax rules above $50,000, less familiarity **A common approach for NZ investors:** - 30-40% in NZ/Australasian investments (home bias for familiarity and tax efficiency) - 60-70% in international markets (for diversification and growth) This split gives you the benefits of both worlds. Many KiwiSaver funds already follow a similar allocation. An investment adviser can recommend the right NZ/international split based on your other assets (if you own NZ property, you already have significant NZ exposure).
An Exchange-Traded Fund (ETF) is an investment fund that trades on the stock exchange like an individual share. It typically tracks an index (like the NZX 50 or S&P 500) or a specific theme. **How ETFs work:** - The ETF provider buys and holds all the shares in an index - You buy units of the ETF on the stock exchange - Your unit represents a tiny slice of all those companies - As the underlying companies change value, so does your ETF unit **Popular ETFs for NZ investors:** - **Smartshares (NZX):** NZ Top 50, US 500, Total World - **Kernel:** NZ 20, Global 100, S&P Kensho - **Vanguard (via Hatch/Sharesies):** VTI (Total US Market), VGS (International) **Why ETFs are popular:** - Low fees (often 0.20-0.50% vs 1-2% for active managed funds) - Instant diversification (one ETF can hold hundreds of companies) - Transparent — you can see exactly what the fund holds - Easy to buy and sell on the stock exchange **ETFs vs managed funds:** ETFs are passively managed (track an index) while many managed funds are actively managed (fund manager picks investments). Research shows most active managers don't consistently beat their benchmark index after fees.
Risk tolerance is your ability and willingness to accept investment losses in pursuit of higher returns. It has two components: **Risk capacity (objective):** How much risk you can financially afford. Factors include: - Your age and time until you need the money - Your income stability - Your emergency fund size - Other assets and debts - Whether anyone depends on you financially **Risk willingness (subjective):** How you emotionally handle investment volatility: - Would a 20% drop in your portfolio keep you awake at night? - Would you sell in a market downturn or hold steady? - How did you react (or how would you react) during a market crash? **General guidelines:** - Longer time horizon → can afford more risk (growth funds) - Shorter time horizon → need less risk (conservative funds) - Stable income → can take more risk than variable income **Finding your level:** Many investment platforms and advisers offer risk assessment questionnaires. However, be honest — overestimating your risk tolerance and then panic-selling during a downturn is worse than investing conservatively from the start. A financial adviser can help you determine an appropriate risk level based on both objective factors and your personal comfort.
Fees are one of the few investment factors you can control, and they significantly impact long-term returns: **Common fee types:** - **Management fee (MER/ICR):** Annual percentage charged by the fund manager. Ranges from 0.10% (passive ETFs) to 2%+ (active managed funds) - **Administration fee:** Fixed annual or monthly charge from the platform or fund - **Brokerage:** Per-trade cost when buying or selling shares. Ranges from $0 (some platforms) to $30+ per trade - **Entry/exit fees:** Charged when you invest or withdraw. Increasingly rare but still exists with some providers - **Performance fees:** Some active managers charge extra if they beat a benchmark **The impact of fees:** A $100,000 investment growing at 7% over 30 years: - At 0.30% fees: grows to $718,000 - At 1.50% fees: grows to $510,000 - **Difference: $208,000** lost to higher fees **What to do:** - Compare fees across similar products - Favour low-cost index funds/ETFs for core holdings - Only pay higher fees if there's evidence of consistent outperformance - Check total fees, not just the headline management fee An investment adviser can help you evaluate whether the fees you're paying are justified by the returns and service you're receiving.
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